GLOSSARY OF MODEL AGENCY AND FASHION TERMS
Accessories: Items like earrings, handbags, or hats used to enhance a wardrobe.
Advance: Money provided to a model before a contract is completed, often for airfare or accommodations.
Advertising Agency: A company responsible for directing ad campaigns, including hiring photographers, producers, and art directors.
Agency: A company that promotes models and takes a commission on their earnings. Agencies develop models by recommending photographers and educating them about the industry.
Agency Fee: The fee charged by an agency to a client, added to the total billing for a job, distinct from the model’s fee.
Agent: A representative who arranges contracts and promotes models. Agents work for the model and negotiate on their behalf.
Appliqué: Decorative elements added to garments, often used in couture fashion for an artisanal effect.
Art Director: The person responsible for the visual aspects of a shoot, including the overall image and design.
Assignment: A job or booking for a model.
Beauty Shot: A close-up photograph of a model showcasing natural beauty with minimal makeup and a simple background.
Billing Form: A form used by models to record job details, including time, client name, and costs.
Blocking: The choreography of a fashion show, determining model positions for aesthetic and lighting effects.
Blow-up: An enlarged photograph for use in a model’s portfolio.
Body Model: A model promoted for their figure, often used for bookings requiring a specific body type.
Book: A model’s portfolio, showcasing their work and looks.
Booker: An agency employee who negotiates bookings and rates for models.
Booking: A job or assignment for a model.
Booking Conditions: The terms of a booking, including payment details and any special requirements.
Booking-Out: When a model informs their agency of their unavailability for work during specific times.
Boxy: A cut for jackets and garments that creates an androgynous, undefined silhouette.
Buy-Out: A lump-sum payment from a client for the use of a model’s image without residuals.
Buyer: An individual responsible for purchasing clothing from designers for stores or boutiques.
Callback: A second or third meeting with prospective clients indicating serious consideration for a model.
Cap Sleeves: Sleeves that sit between sleeveless and short, flattering arms and shoulders.
Casting: An audition where models are considered for upcoming assignments.
Casting Director: The person who oversees the selection process for castings.
Catalog/Catalogue: Print modeling focused on displaying products to attract consumers.
Cattle Call: A large-scale casting where models are reviewed briefly with minimal interaction.
Catwalk: Another term for the runway in a fashion show.
Change Sheet: A cloth used during fashion shows to protect clothes and manage quick changes.
Character Model: A model known for their memorable presence or role-playing a specific character.
Check-In: The time when a model contacts their agency for their daily schedule of castings and go-sees.
Checker: The person who ensures outfit details are correct before a model goes on the runway.
Chromes: A term for photographic slides, rarely used with modern digital photography.
Client: The person or company hiring models for a project.
Closed Set: A restricted area on set accessible only to those involved in the shoot.
Collection: A designer’s set of garments for a specific season.
Commentary: Spoken descriptions during a fashion show about clothing, designers, and the show’s theme.
Commercial: Modeling focused on everyday products and lifestyles rather than high fashion.
Commercial Print: The use of a model’s image to promote a product or service.
Commission: The percentage of a model’s earnings retained by their agent or agency.
Comp Card: A promotional card featuring a model’s best photos and information.
Composite: A card or sheet with a model’s most marketable images, also known as a comp card or zed card.
Confirm/Confirmation: Agreement on terms between a client and booker for a job assignment.
Conflict: A situation where a model’s recent work for a competitor affects their eligibility for a new campaign.
Contract: A formal agreement outlining the conditions of a modeling arrangement.
Contact Sheet: A sheet showing all images from a film roll for preview before selection. Also called proof sheets.
Creatives: Unpaid shoots where all participants contribute equally, often used for portfolio building.
Digitals: Natural, unretouched photos of a model, typically in minimal clothing, used for client or agency reviews.
Direct Booking: An arrangement where a model is hired directly for a specific job.
Dirndl Skirt: A full, gathered skirt with a fitted waist, inspired by traditional German dress.
Dress Rehearsal: A full run-through of a fashion show to familiarize models with clothes, choreography, and timing.
Dressers: Backstage assistants who help models with clothing changes and garment care.
Dressing Room: The area where models prepare and change during a fashion show.
Drop Cloth: A cloth used to protect garments during quick changes at a fashion show.
E-Card/E-Comp: An online version of a comp card used for digital marketing of a model.
Editorial: A type of modeling focusing on creating mood or narrative through photos.
Epaulets: Decorative shoulder elements on garments, often used in military-inspired fashion.
Exclusive: An agreement where a model works only for one client unless permitted to work on other projects.
Expense Form: A document used by models to track expenses for tax purposes.
Extras: Background performers in visual media, often hired for specific roles or scenes.
Fashion District: A city area with shops, designers, and modeling agencies dedicated to fashion.
Fashion Model: A model primarily used to display clothing and accessories.
Fashion Photographer: A photographer specializing in fashion images for models, magazines, and catalogues.
Fashion Show: An event where models display clothing collections to showcase new designs.
Fashion Week: A scheduled week where designers present their collections for the upcoming season.
Fee: The agreed amount paid to a model for their work.
Figure Model: A model known for their exceptional physique, often used for swimwear or lingerie.
Filigree: Fine wirework used for decorative effects on garments or accessories.
Fit Model: A model used to design and fit garments, ensuring proper construction and fit.
Fitness Model: A model with a well-toned physique, featured in fitness-related magazines and ads.
Fitting: A session where a model tries on garments to ensure a proper fit.
Flat Rate: A set fee agreed upon before a booking, regardless of time or conditions.
Freelance: Working independently without agency representation.
Full-Length: A photo showing the model from head to toe.
Gaiter: A fabric piece worn over the shoe, extending to the ankle or knee.
Glossy: An 8x10 black-and-white photo used for marketing a model in acting roles.
Go-See: A meeting where a model is presented to a client for potential work opportunities.
Guarantee: A minimum amount of earnings assured by an agency for a model’s representation.
Jouy Print: A detailed pattern on a white or off-white background.
Knife Pleat: A narrow, sharp fold in fabric.
Layout: The arrangement of photos, text, and logos on printed materials.
Leg Model: A model with notable legs used for advertising specific products.
Lettuce Hem: A wavy hem created by stretching the fabric during sewing.
Line: A designer’s collection for a specific season.
Loading: Additional payment for extended use of a model’s image beyond the initial campaign scope.
Location: A photography setting outside a studio.
Look Book: A designer’s booklet showcasing a season’s collection to buyers.
Loupe: A magnifying tool for examining images on a contact sheet.
Major Markets: Cities or regions with significant modeling opportunities.
Mandarin Collar: A small, upright collar style.
Mannequin: A model term used in France; also refers to a model used to display clothing.
Mannequin Modeling: Displaying fashion in a stationary pose, similar to a store mannequin.
Market (noun): Areas with substantial modeling work.
Market (verb): To promote or generate interest in something.
Minibook/Mini-Portfolio: A smaller version of a model’s portfolio used for client previews.
Model: An individual hired to display products or services.
Model’s Release: A form signed by a model allowing the use of their image.
Model’s Tote: A bag with essential items for assignments, like makeup, extra shoes, and a sewing kit.
Modeling Agency: A business promoting models for a commission.
Mother Agency: The primary agency representing a model and negotiating contracts in various markets.
Neats: Small socks with evenly spaced designs.
New Face: A model just starting out or new to an agency.
Nude Model: A model who poses without clothing.
Ombré: A gradual color transition from dark to light.
On Location: A shoot setting outside of a studio.
On Set: The location where a photo or video shoot takes place.
On Stay: A period where a model resides in a non-home market for work.
Open Call: An event where agencies meet with prospective models without appointments.
Option: A request to “hold” a model for a potential future campaign.
Overtime: Extra time on set beyond the agreed period, often paid at a higher rate.
Paperbag Waist: A gathered, loose waistline giving a scrunched look.
Parts Model: A model specializing in certain body parts, such as hands or legs.
Petite Model: Generally regarded as models under 5’7″ (170 cm), and possessing a small frame.
Photo Movement: The process of moving from pose-to-pose in front of a camera.
Photo Session/Shoot: A scheduled time for the taking of photographs.
Plus-size Model: Generally regarded as models that wear a dress size of 10 or more, possessing a larger frame.
Portfolio: A book, containing a model’s best work from photo shoots or tearsheets. The portfolio is used to show to prospective clients, to showcase a model’s diversity and experience.
Potential: A term used in conjunction with evaluating a model’s ability to succeed.
Press Show: A fashion show put on by a designer to introduce media to their new line or collection.
Pret-a-porter: Ready to wear. (French)
Print: A photograph. The standard size to fit a model’s portfolio is 9″ x 12″.
Print Modelling: Any type of modeling related to the publishing of still photographs
Proof Sheets: Another term for contact sheets.
Props: Items used in conjunction with a set to enhance to overall image of the picture.
Seam: In sewing, the place where two pieces of fabric are joined. This creates a more or less visible line on the surface of a garment. Many different kinds of seam constructions are used, depending on whether the seam is a decorative element of the design, the kind of fabric used, or how much stress is placed on the seam. The following are several of the most commonly used seam types. Plain seam is made by placing the right sides of two garment pieces together and sewing the seam on the underside of the fabric. When the pieces are opened, the seam will be on the inside of the garment. Some type of seam finish may be needed to prevent the seam from raveling. Many plain seams are made on a machine called a serger that uses a looping stitch to cover over the edges of the seam and keep it from raveling. Flat felled seam or a simulated flat felled seam is often used in sturdy blue jeans. A very durable seam, it has a double row of stitching that holds the seam down. French seams are used on very sheer and delicate fabrics and require several steps in which a seam is sewn on the right side of the fabric, then the right sides of the fabric are placed together and another row of stitching is made that encloses the original seam.
sew by: The sample garment prepared by a contractor who will be making this type of garment for a manufacturer. The manufacturer can then compare the apparel produced by the contractor to see if its quality is comparable to that of the sample.
shibori: A method of ornamenting fabric by stitching and forming gathers in the fabric before it is dyed. After dyeing, the stitching is removed and the crinkled areas released. The areas protected from the dye by the stitching and gathering absorb the dye in irregular patterns characteristic of these fabrics.
shift: A basic dress style that has simple, straight lines and does not fit close to the body. Very popular in the 1960s and in other periods when unfitted styles are popular. One innovation in this style in the 1960s was the incorporation of a diagonal dart running from the side seam to the bustline. In comparison, a sheath is a simple, straight, but fitted dress in which vertical darts, bust darts, and shaping from side seams provide the fit.
signature bag: A handbag, considered a status symbol, that has the signature, initials, or logo of a high fashion designer or company, printed in an allover pattern or placed strategically on the bag so it is visible. Counterfeit copies of these bags are often sold by street vendors.
sourcing: Determining where textiles and/or apparel can be obtained, and how and when this will be done. In the global economy, sources may be domestic or international.
soutache braid: A flat braid, generally rather narrow. Applied in rows or, more often, in complex ornamental patterns to decorate ares of a garment.
spangles: Decorative pieces, usually made from metal or plastic, that have a hole through which they can be sewn to a garment. Sequins, which are usually round and fairly small, and paillettes, which are larger and made in different shapes, are the most common types of spangles. They are often combined with beads in decorating evening dresses, handbags, and other accessories.
sportswear: Originally used to refer to clothing for active sports, and later to clothing worn to watch sporting events, this term has come to be applied to the broad category of casual wear and is worn at any time of the day and for a wide variety of activities. Today the term activewear is more likely to be applied to clothing for active sports. Sportswear is considered by many to be a major contribution of American design to clothing styles world wide.
stitch-bonding: Often classified as a nonwoven fabric, stitch-bonded fabrics are either networks of yarns or fiber webs that are held together by sewing or knitting through the base material. The first such material was trademarked in East Germany under the name of Malimo. Techniques for making stitch-bonded fabrics include laying warp and weft yarns across each other without interlacing and then using a sewing or knitting stitch to hold them together, sewing pile yarns to a woven or knitted base, and sewing a web of fibers together. Such fabrics can be used for apparel, household textiles, and industrial textiles. They have price advantages over knitting or weaving in that they require less yarn or fiber and can be produced more rapidly.
stock keeping units (SKU): An inventory management and record-keeping term in which items are assigned to a particular unit that the retailer wants to track. All items in one SKU would be identical in style, color, size, or other characteristics. For example, a polyester gathered skirt, size 12, in navy blue would be assigned to a different SKU than the same navy blue polyester skirt in size 14.
stock on hand: The retail items currently held at the retail store or other outlet and available to sell.
Talent: The performing side of modelling, as in acting, singing or dancing.
Tears: Pages from magazines or other printed matter featuring the model’s image in circulation (as opposed to prints from photographers). Tears are used as proof that a model has experience and the ability to work well. Also called tearsheets.
Tearsheets: Pages from magazines or other printed matter featuring the model’s image in circulation (as opposed to prints from photographers). Tearsheets are used as proof that a model has experience and the ability to work well. Also called tears.
Tests/Testshoots/Testing: Photoshoots that the model does to increase the amount of shots in his/her portfolio. Tests are normally done to give the model a different look than what can already be found in his/her book, thereby showcasing the model’s diversity.
Three-quarter length: A photograph consisting of the model’s head, torso, and any area below the waist, but above the ankles
Time-for-Prints (TFP) / Trade-for-Pic: An arrangement where a photographer agrees to give a certain amount of prints to a model in exchange for her time spent posing.
Tote: A bag usually carried by models to their bookings containing tools required to complete the assignment. Items included may be Static Guard, a sewing kit, a makeup kit, extra shoes, and various kinds of undergarments.
Trade Show: A show geared towards a certain segment of the population, containing booths and displays. Models are often hired as hostesses and spokesmodels as a way of attracting attention to one of competing displays.
Trompe L’Oeil: An artistic technique where realistic imagery is used so to appear three dimensional.
Trunk Show: A collection from a single designer, which generally travels to selected stores that retail that designer’s clothes. Small-scale fashion shows are then presented right in the store, before the collection moves on.
Unitard: A skin-tight garment that covers the body from the neck to the wrists and ankles.
Usage fees: Similar to residuals, in that models are paid extra depending on the amount of times their image is used in conjunction with an ad campaign.
Vent: A split in a garment to allow for movement. Common in Forties silhouettes and pencil skirts. Also found on trench coats and formal tailoring.
Voucher: A form signed in triplicate at the completion of a booking. The voucher verifies the times and conditions of the completed booking. One copy is kept by the client, one by the model, and one by the agency. These forms are then used for billing purposes.
Wardrobe: A model’s collection of clothing.
Weather Permit: Conditions related to the weather that may affect a booking and payment for late cancellations.
Welt Pockets: A pocket set into the garment with a slit entrance, as opposed to a patch or flap pocket.
X-ray Fabrics: Sheer fabrics with a translucent effect.
Yoke: The part of the garment around the neckline on the front and the back.
Zed card: Another name for comp card or sed card.